Think of the Hautes-Pyrénées and its famous cirques inevitably spring to mind. Gavarnie, you say? Yes, but not only. There are 3 neighbours: Troumouse, Estaubé and Gavarnie, immense rock walls backed against the Spanish border.
Take the whole family to see the spectacle. Here is what awaits.
Gavarnie: magnificent but crowded
Magnificent! A superlative, but no exaggeration: Gavarnie truly is one of the finest glacial cirques. UNESCO-listed, its rock wall crowned with summits over 3,000 m forms a superb arc. Water enhances the mineral beauty: the lovely valley stream and, of course, the famous 422 m waterfall. Much taller than the Eiffel Tower, it is admired from afar and enjoyed up close, with spray depending on the wind.
The walk is also easy, fairly short and family-friendly. A feast for the eyes without much effort.
Overcrowded? Easy road access and the qualities above make it essential for anyone nearby. Paid car parks can therefore fill early in summer, and you never feel alone on the route. However, the broad path keeps things moving pleasantly, while parking capacity prevents excessive crowds.
Here are several tips for escaping the main flow:
- Come early in summer. Reach the car park as early as possible, before 9.
- Walk a loop. Take the main path uphill to enjoy the spectacular view fully. For the return, use the path on the right at Hôtellerie du Cirque when returning from the waterfall. This quiet path follows the cliffside, sometimes cut into rock, before descending through forest to the start. Avoid walking it the opposite way or you will miss the finest cirque views.
- Visit Gavarnie cirque in winter. Still easily accessible with snowshoes, it reveals itself under snow with almost nobody around.
- Gain height: park at Col des Tentes and follow the short ridge path towards Pic de la Pahule for a complete view of Gavarnie cirque, with Brèche de Rolland as a bonus.
Troumouse: discreet grandeur
Without its prestigious neighbour, Troumouse would certainly be better known. Its 4 km diameter makes it one of Europe's largest cirques. From the meadows in its heart, the completely open semicircle offers a striking view.
It takes slightly longer than Gavarnie to enjoy fully, but the hike suits a family of walkers. I suggest a loop starting from the car park near Héas chapel, 1,520 m, reaching the heart of the cirque at 2,100 m and returning via Auberge du Maillet. A short day's walk with a picnic inside the cirque.
A shorter out-and-back walk is possible by parking at Auberge du Maillet. However, the path and view are less pleasant in that direction, so I recommend the full loop.
Estaubé: quiet charm
Do not forget the third cirque hidden between Gavarnie and Troumouse: Estaubé.
Reached by a small mountain road, Estaubé is the smallest but also the most peaceful of the 3 cirques.
The entire walk is charming, not just the cirque. First follow Lac des Gloriettes, then ascend beside the stream through a narrow, pastoral valley. It gradually widens to reveal the cirque, hidden by fog in our photos. Easy for a family of walkers, with under 200 m ascent, and particularly pleasant. Do not miss it.
All three cirques in one trip:
On a multi-day hike? Visit all 3 consecutively: they are linked by a trail.
From Troumouse, reach Estaubé via Auberge du Maillet, where a path leads to Lac des Gloriettes. From Estaubé, cross towards Gavarnie via the Hourquette d'Halans pass, 2,430 m, leading to the Cardous plateau.
3 accommodation options along the route: Auberge du Maillet in Troumouse, and Espuguettes refuge and Chalet de Pailla between Estaubé and Gavarnie.
This circuit can form part of a longer route, particularly connecting with Néouvielle park. There are also 2 crossings into Spain: Brèche de Rolland west of Gavarnie, or Port Neuf de Pinède in Estaubé.