Iceland: trekking from Landmannalaugar to Skogafoss
Iceland! A destination I rank among the very best places to hike.
It feels like being at the origins of the Earth. A wild, turbulent land where lava seems ready to burst out at any moment. Glaciers resting on black ground with fumaroles escaping at their feet; improbable layers of red, green, blue and yellow, like my son's finger paintings; fluorescent mosses dotted with delicate white flowers; well-known hot-water rivers and well-hidden natural hot pools.
In short, it is wonderful!
Do you like cool weather? Find violent winds invigorating? Does rain revive you? Good: that is precisely Iceland's weather when it is fine.
Beyond these climatic quirks, which should not be underestimated, it is sometimes harsh but always charming.
Here I present the classic trek from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmorsk, also called the Laugavegur trek, where many stop. For me, it is well worth extending by a day to the sea at Skogafoss.
The advantages:
- The trek is easily reached by bus from Reykjavik at both ends; it is in the island's south-east and can therefore be done even with only a few days available.
- It offers enormous landscape diversity. The views are breathtaking. I still dream about them…
- The route is well defined, with the choice of camping or staying in a hut every night.
Difficulties:
The terrain presents no major difficulty as far as Thorsmork, with often soft ground and moderate elevation changes. But bear these cautions in mind:
- Consider the weather; delay the day's departure if fog settles, as getting lost is a risk;
- Be properly equipped for rain, wind and cold: waterproof jacket and trousers (forget the rain poncho), hat, gloves, warm clothing and so on. But also shorts, preferably convertible trousers, and swimwear.
- Expect to ford several particularly forceful streams with “invigorating” water. Finding a crossing point can take time. Bring water sandals.
The final stage between Thormsork and the sea is quieter and more exposed in its first part: higher ground, harder effort, more weather exposure, large yellow posts for navigation in fog, and several glacier tongues to cross. It is a big day. Avoid it if unsure of your abilities or if the weather really deteriorates. Some allow 2 days.
The trek therefore takes 4 to 6 days.
Direction: generally inland to the sea, starting at Landmannalaugar, with more descent than ascent. You can also reverse it and spend time in Landmannalaugar, as described below.
Starting at Landmannalaugar:
You will not feel alone at base camp, but the magnificent hot-water river is big enough for everyone. Bathing is delightful, and you can move around to choose your temperature: warm, hot, very hot or lightly cooked… The surroundings are fabulous and deserve an initial walk.
Here are the first 4 classic stages. Each reaches a hut for sleeping indoors or camping. They are not very long, but do not underestimate the possible weather impact, river crossings with their undressing and dressing ritual, or time spent admiring scenery and saying “wow!”
Stage 1: Landmannalaugar - Hrafntinnusker
The wildest colour palette of the entire route. A proper geology lesson would help explain how it is possible. And black obsidian shining in the sun. Something for everyone.
Stage 2: Hrafntinnusker - Alftavatn
Fumaroles and bubbling pools, but also glaciers, lakes, black earth dotted with volcanic rocks and improbable flowers. Wow!
Stage 3: Álftavatn - Emstrur
Among today's sights is a deep, multicoloured canyon followed near the end. Glaciers on the horizon. The renewed “joy” of fording streams…
Stage 4: Emstrur - Thorsmork
Around Thorsmork the scenery changes again, with unusual birch vegetation, followed by a riverbed as wide as a delta. If you have time, on the other side is a canyon whose vertical walls are completely carpeted in greenery.
Final stage: stop or continue?
You can stop at Thorsmork and catch the bus, as many do. But this final stage is magnificent: a substantial 900 m ascent between glaciers, Fimmvorduhals pass, then a descent alongside 900 m of ever more impressive waterfalls. It ends at the enormous Skogafoss waterfall (62 m) and the coast. Different again, and so spectacular!
It is, however, a big hiking day, with a more demanding and exposed first section than the rest: climbing between glaciers, with yellow posts marking the way. Some do it in 2 days, totalling around 27 km with +1,100 m / -1,300 m. I have done it twice, each time in one long day, helped by the long daylight hours.
The choice is yours…