The highest point in the Massif Central, Puy de Sancy is a good winter destination, generally with snow and a range of pleasant, varied hikes and landscapes.
Here are some ideas for beautiful snowshoe hikes, along with walks without snowshoes if the weather prevents access to the ridges. I completed them during 2 visits in February.
These routes are generally technically straightforward, but watch the weather: wind at higher elevations can be powerful and bitterly cold. As always, be careful and gather information before setting out.
Chaudefour valley:
Well worth visiting. This is Sancy's only side without ski resort development. The small Chaudefour valley is a nature park in its own right.
Here are 2 snowshoe hikes, starting from the car park near the reserve visitor centre:
- Valley-floor hike
Winter or summer, this out-and-back hike lets you appreciate the valley fully. Initially narrow and wooded, it widens to reveal superb summit scenery and rocky pinnacles with evocative names: Dent de la Rancune and Crête de Coq. Possible without snowshoes depending on snow cover.
- Chaudefour valley to Puy de Sancy
Take the same valley-floor path, turning left after Pont Ste Anne at the end of the vehicle track. The steep woodland hillside climb requires good snowshoes. Enjoy the scenery fully on reaching the ridge. Continue to the top of Super-Besse ski area, then reach Puy de Sancy.
Puy de Sancy-Col de la Croix Morand ridge:
This ridge between Chambon sur Lac and Mont Dore offers several hiking options:
- Ridge hikes with sweeping panoramas. Watch weather conditions: these are the region's highest points, particularly exposed to wind.
Possible starting points: Col de la Croix Morand. Le Buron du Col is a very welcoming restaurant!
Head towards Puy de la Tache and follow the ridge towards Sancy. Few difficulties apart from the weather! The opposite direction offers what appears a gentler walk.
From Col de la Croix Saint Robert, head towards Roc de Cuzeau and Puy de Sancy, or towards Puy de l'Angle to join the ridge path leading to Col de la Croix Morand.
- Circuit of Lac de Guéry. Auvergne's highest lake, 1,240 m, frozen during our visit. A very pleasant woodland walk with fine lake views. A short detour reaches the waterfall. The return follows the road for 1 km.
Mont Dore:
Here are 2 beautiful hikes:
- From town, climb to Grande Cascade. Continue above it to reach Col de la Croix Saint Robert.
- From Salon du Capucin on the opposite side: a beautiful forest traverse before reaching bare uplands and the ridge, with fine views of Mont Dore resort and the opposite ridge. A small snowshoe trail fee applies at the start.
Hikes without snowshoes:
In windy weather, stay lower for lovely walks:
- Lac Pavin: unmissable, at least for a glimpse of this exceptional site, a lake filling a perfectly defined circular crater. The hike circles left around the lake, climbs the small Puy de Montchal summit and descends the other side. We did it without snowshoes.
- Lac Chambon-Murol: a good fallback when uplands are too windy. The flat lake circuit is very pleasant. Extend the loop to Murol for a view looking up at the impressive castle.
- L'Aiguille du Marais: another essential walk. With limited time, make an out-and-back to the rock pinnacle, continuing another 5 minutes for views of the rock face and Murol fortress below. With more time, continue to Murol and return on a lower path linking it with Lac Chambon. Extend the loop further by starting your ascent below the ruins of Château de Varennes.
Do not miss the historic heritage: medieval Château de Murol is superb, its round fortress perched on a cone as impressive inside as out. Saint Nectaire church, on a rocky outcrop, is majestic and bright, with sumptuous carved capitals still retaining colour and beautiful wooden statues. Medieval Besse also deserves a visit.
As you can see, Puy de Sancy's surroundings offer lovely snowshoe walks and, when wind is too strong, more sheltered hikes. Something for everyone.