Contents no. 41 - September 2025
Rain poncho comparison
To help you choose a rain poncho, RayonRando compares 4 quality models designed for different uses:
- The Ferrino Hiker rain poncho, with press studs and a backpack compartment.
- The Ferrino Trekker Ripstop rain poncho, with long sleeves, aluminised ripstop fabric and a backpack compartment.
- The Pro-X Bern rain poncho, with long sleeves, a waterproof yet breathable membrane and extra cycling features.
- The Ultra-léger poncho tarp 15 D by Sea to Summit, ultralight, opens fully and can be used as a tarp.
The first 3 models come in 2 sizes. Below 1.70 m, choose the smaller; above 1.75 m, choose the larger. Between 1.70 and 1.75 m, either may fit. Choose larger if broadly built with a large backpack. Stay with smaller if slim, especially with a small backpack.
What magnificent cirques! Troumouse, Estaubé, Gavarnie
Think of the Hautes-Pyrénées and you inevitably think of its famous cirques. Gavarnie, you say? Yes, but there are others. There are 3 neighbours: Troumouse, Estaubé and Gavarnie, immense rock walls backed against the Spanish border.
Go and enjoy the spectacle with the whole family. Here is what awaits you.
Gavarnie: magnificent but crowded
Magnificent! A superlative, but no exaggeration: the Cirque de Gavarnie really is one of the most beautiful glacial cirques anywhere. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, its rock wall crowned by peaks over 3,000 m forms a stunning arc. The beauty of the rock is enhanced by water: the lovely mountain river on the valley floor and the famous 422 m waterfall. Far taller than the Eiffel Tower, it can be admired from afar and enjoyed close up, feeling its spray depending on the wind.
The walk is also easy, fairly short and family-friendly. Spectacular views without great effort.
Crowded? Easy road access and these attractions make it a must for anyone nearby. Paid car parks can fill early in summer, and you never feel alone on the route. However, the wide path keeps it flowing and pleasant, while car park capacity limits overcrowding.
Knowing when to turn back on a hike
Overcoming my natural reserve, today I have decided to discuss a hiking taboo: turning back. Yes, it has happened to me too. More than once…
Some turnarounds, diversions and changes of plan:
I will not tell you everything, but here are a few examples of when I decided to turn back and change route:
- In Tyrol, a superb route follows a rocky gully equipped with cables. When we come into view, a very steep wall of snow covers rocks and cable. Without the necessary equipment, we take a different route.
- In the Dolomites, we must climb and cross a superb block-shaped rocky massif. From a distance, a hefty thunderstorm is clearly trapped against it; we stay below and go around.
- Iceland is paradise, apart from the wind. It blows so hard that we shelter behind a bank. Next comes a beautiful ridge path. Immediate take-off? Never mind: we turn back.
- In the Picos de Europa, my companion's thigh can no longer keep going. This time the trek is over.
- In Norway, in rain and snow, my partner is so chilled she can barely move, leaving us around 25 hours from our planned overnight camp. We descend quickly to a road accessible to vehicles, where a car saves the day and takes us back towards our route. A day's rest and we set off refreshed on a slightly altered route.
- In Corsica, we learn before departure that the Cirque de la Solitude and Brèche de Capitello are closed because of excessive snow. We completely revise our original route.
Bad reasons not to turn back:
And yet, I do not want to turn back!
There are certainly plenty of bad reasons not to:
- My ego: in my own eyes, those of friends or companions. What would I look like?
- Self-deception: “We have come too far to give up!” As though the danger ahead should be downplayed because of the effort and time already spent getting here.
- Sticking to the “plan”: “I said I would do the GR20, so I am not taking an alternative route. Besides, we will not have time to do everything!”
Mastering the art of turning back (and avoiding the need to):
Yes, it can be done! By working on a few points:
- Mindset: a route is a provisional plan, not an imperative for a successful life. Remember: you are on holiday! Sometimes shortening one day is enough to recover and set off on the right foot. A safer, quieter alternative can be pleasant too.
- Recognise danger as it approaches: difficult passages, threatening or uncertain weather, a hiker's condition, unsuitable or broken equipment. A good idea: talk to people you meet to find out what lies ahead.
- Plan ahead: consider possible setbacks, including unpredictable weather and uncertainty about terrain, fitness or your companions' experience. Study alternatives, variations or other routes. One suggestion: a paper map gives a wider view of the mountain range and possible paths than a route marked on a GPS.
Turning back when necessary may be the secret to a successful holiday, and lets you look forward to the next hike with peace of mind.
Receive RayonRandoZine:
Clear, concise articles:
- Practical advice
- First-hand experiences
- Technical advice
- Route guides & destinations
- Books on hiking and long-distance journeys...
You will receive 1 free magazine a month for 12 months.
No advertising. No marketing emails.
We would like your feedback:
If you have 3 minutes, tell us what you thought of this issue. It will help us improve future issues: Share my feedback