For many people, hiking in the Pyrenees stops at the Spanish border. Beyond it is far away and harder to reach, you think? Yet you can reach a corner of paradise in the Spanish Pyrenees without even crossing a mountain pass: Val d'Aran.
RayonRando introduces this superb region through a selection of beautiful family hikes suitable for a 5-year-old who enjoys walking. We chose accessible hikes with 300 to 400 m of ascent, always with a route and destination to motivate a young child: lakes, waterfalls and even an old mine.
Val d'Aran: a distinctive corner of Spain
Geographically distinct:
Although Spanish, Val d'Aran has only one natural outlet: the Garonne, leading straight into France. That explains the easy access for us: a comfortable valley-floor road follows the ‘Garona’ throughout.
Unlike French valleys, Val d'Aran runs west-east, giving a climate softened by oceanic influences. I do not know if it was typical, but during our August stay, alongside ripe bilberries, the mountains were still covered in flowers.
Historically and culturally distinct:
Spanish since the King of Aragon claimed it for his kingdom in the 12th century, Val d'Aran long remained largely isolated from Spain and connected to France. The only pass towards Catalonia gained a road only in 1924, while the sole tunnel south opened in 1949. Val d'Aran also long enjoyed some political autonomy. Part of the Spanish kingdom, it was formerly linked religiously to the French bishopric of Saint Bertrand de Comminges.
This political authority has been reaffirmed since the 1990s. Val d'Aran belongs to Catalonia, but its 10,000 inhabitants also form a ‘Val d'Aran’ region with a regional council holding significant powers.
There are 3 official languages: Aranese, a variety of Occitan, Spanish and Catalan.
Why hike in Val d'Aran?
Sumptuous scenery: high mountains, lakes and greenery.
- To the south lies Aiguetortes and Estany Sant Maurici nature park, sometimes called the ‘park of a thousand lakes’. Apparently there are only 200, already plenty… The northern area outside the park also has many lakes and waterfalls, destinations for numerous walks.
- These ‘thousand’ lakes sit amid high peaks from 2,500 to over 3,000m. The lower valley is bordered southwards by the Maladeta massif, including famous Aneto at 3,400 m. Several walks offer magnificent views of this rocky, snowy summit line.
- Between lakes, waterfalls and streams, there is also plenty of greenery, forest and lovely flower-filled alpine pasture.
- Trails are numerous and generally well marked. Our suggestions are fairly easy, sometimes with large stones that do not deter a 5-year-old. Not overcrowded in August. Detailed route descriptions are available, notably at Vielha tourist office. I also recommend the 1:40000 Alpina 40 ‘Val d'Aran’ map; 1:25000 maps are available too. Adding an app such as Alltrails or Komoot makes all the hikes easy to follow.
Harmonious development: all recent buildings have stone and timber façades blending perfectly with traditional homes, creating a pleasant unified style when exploring villages.
Culture: so close to France, yet already somewhere different, in a Spanish environment of language and food. Heritage-wise, churches are real gems, often with sumptuous medieval or Renaissance paintings.
Vielha: the ideal base. Mid-valley, Vielha is the main village, pleasant and offering all useful services. It is also central for hiking: we never drove more than 30 minutes in any direction to reach trailheads.
Specific Aiguetortes park restrictions: wild camping is prohibited, as is swimming in some lakes. Car access is limited. Val d'Aran has 2 access points: a bus from Arties to Pont det Ressec for hiking to Restanca lake, or driving to Banhs de Tredos thermal baths at Tredos, then walking if time allows or taking a shared taxi to reach the many lakes quickly. There are 2 other approaches through different valleys: Boi to the south and Espot to the east, followed by shared taxis.
Some family hikes in Val d'Aran:
West, between France and Vielha:
- Artiga de Lin: a warm-up. A pleasant walk with 100 m ascent, 100 m D+, half alpine pasture, half forest, around a cascading stream, Uelhs deth Joeu. Start at Mair de Diu dera Artiga car park above Es Bordès, or take the tourist train for quick access to the finest area near the refuge.
- Mines Victoria: hiking and sightseeing combined. A short walk with steep woodland slopes, a few tens of metres, leads to old zinc and lead mines. The guided tour is worthwhile. Start at Ares reservoir above Ares de Sus. The access road towards Vilamos offers sumptuous Maladeta views. In particular, take the short walk from Vilamos village to hilltop Sant Miqueu chapel.
Saut deth Pish waterfalls: accessible by car from Arros. Choose a very short walk from Plan des Artiguetes to see the superb waterfall and setting, or a small ¾-hour loop with around 100 m ascent.
East, between Vielha and Port de la Bonaigua: several walks near the pass start at 1,900-2,000 m, making it easy to reach 2,300-2,400 m in a high-mountain atmosphere.
- Estany Gerber lake: a superb ascent through a narrow valley, passing 2 small lakes before beautiful Estany de Gerber. Start: large car park beyond the pass at 1,900 m. 300 ascent.
- Estany Montanyo lake: a beautiful hike between alpine meadows and peaks, with a sometimes steep but comfortable climb to Estany Podo pass, then a short descent to lovely Montanyo lake. Start: small gravel car park on the left beyond the pass, at 2,000 m. 400 ascent.
- Estany de Boren and Estany de Baciver lakes: climb a beautiful rocky valley to superb Boren lake, suitable for swimming; daredevils also dive from an impressive rock ledge. Continue to Baciver lakes if desired. Start above Baqueira at Plan de Beret car park, 1,862 m. 300 ascent to Estany de Boren, 450 to Baciver.
- Corilha ravine: a pleasant short walk via lovely Unha village, whose church has wall paintings worth visiting. Start at Unha or Gessa near Salardu. 300 ascent.
South of the valley, Aiguetortes park:
- Colomers lake: a superb hike in the park's heart to discover some of its many lakes. We walked a loop via Colomers, Mort, Jos, Cabidornats and Long lakes. A larger loop is possible with an early start. Start: possible from Banhs de Tredos, but with children a shared taxi is better, leaving a ½-hour walk to the first lake. 300 ascent.
- Estanh Redon lake: a glacial lake reached after a beautiful, sometimes steep and exposed climb with 600 ascent, therefore not suitable for every family. Start at the Vielha tunnel exit, Er Espitau de Vielha, requiring a turn-around slightly further down to access it.
Bonus hike: want to stretch yourself? From central Vielha, a steep but straightforward hike reaches Pujoblanco summit. Initially wooded, it then reaches alpine pasture with sumptuous Maladeta views. From the summit, beautiful 360° views over valley and peaks. 1,250 m ascent.
